
I recently took twelve day trip to Costa Rica, much of which I spent surfing. Or, rather, failing at surfing. Surfing is one of those sweet activities where you're really only doing the thing it's named for about 10 percent of the physical time. Maybe even less. For the remainder, you're creating opportunities, chasing possibilities, making choices, observing results, putting in effort, doing the work. Basically, a lot of paddling around, thinking, sitting, paddling, looking, watching, feeling, paddling, waiting, spinning around, paddling, spinning back, paddling. Did I say paddling?
And mixed up in all of that is a whole lot of failing. Missing the opportunity you created. Not quite catching the possibility you've chased. Making a flawed choice. Lots of that. So in something like surfing, we accept it as part of the deal. I certainly do. I think you have to.
I had my first experience on a surfboard a little less than five years ago and had only a handful of lessons or trials-by-fire in those following few years. This past summer was my first with a board of my own, and I still only had a baker's dozen of sessions at sea. So... as a beginner, you get friendly with failure. You put your foot in the wrong place, remember what you did, and learn. You try to avoid nose-diving and nose-dive... and learn. You paddle for something you can't catch. You paddle for something you definitely shouldn't be trying to catch. And you learn. You say, "Isn't that interesting!" and then adjust so that next time you can say, "Holy sh*t, that was awesome!"
It feels natural. Part of the process. And since there's a commitment to the results, we can relish the big, ugly wipeouts along the way. There's no avoiding or ignoring or wishing them away.
I kept a journal on this trip and specifically wrote about the two worst experiences I've had in the ocean in my life, ever. Because I put myself into places I never would have dared before and took new risks that led to new mistakes. And because I learned a whole lot by getting bruised on my fins, getting pulled over the falls, and having a good tumble in the wash. And because I want to remember what didn't work so that I can create more of what does. It's fun when it works.
Seth Godin speaks particularly well about the reality of failure:
"You become a winner because you're good at losing. The hard part about losing is that you might permit it to give strength to the resistance (fear), that you might believe that you don't deserve to win, that you might, in some dark corner of your soul, give up.
Don't."
Here's to a joyful life full of fantastic failures. Cheers.
******
Oh, and then maybe one day after we get good enough at losing, we can win like Kelly Slater, switch-footing on barrels in Indo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyNnkYcEUD8&feature=fvst